Saturday, August 4, 2012

And it's Going...Going...Trogon!

For years now, my Pops and I would make trips down to southeastern Arizona, always enjoying the beautiful birds and scenery, but also leaving a bit unfulfilled. We weren't always there at the right time of year, and we didn't always try really hard, but the fact remained that despite a long residence in Arizona and not-infrequent trips down south, we never saw an Elegant Trogon. At first it was a palatable failure. We weren't too serious and Trogons are not common birds. But over time, we began to sense a great emptiness in our lives, a void in our existence that could only be filled by avian elegance, and so the need to view the Trogon grew and grew.


The frustrations and failures continued over the years, with the taunting of this psychedelic bird eliciting outbreaks of psychosis every summer. The Trogon changed from just an avian jewel to a full-blown nemesis, a very stylish nemesis, which is the most dangerous nemesis of all. Instances of missing the birds in Madera Canyon or the Chiricahua Mountains by a day or even hours turned the pursuit into something more than just a leisurely birding expedition. It became an existential imperative that we see the Trogon. It became...mortal combat!!!


The intensity and passion is always palpable when birders squeeze into a small sedan and head off into the mountains, and on July 19th the little red corolla must've been glowing as the Butlers Birds Team embarked on an epic quest down to the Santa Ritas once more. As per the usual, our main goal was to see a Trogon. But this time things were different. This time the phrase, "or die trying" was thrown around a lot. This time we had all the necessary ninja gear. This time we were ready. 

We didn't get up into Madera Canyon until the afternoon, having first made some great stops at Montosa Canyon and the Kent Springs Trail for Plain-capped Starthroat, Scarlet Tanager, and Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher. Seeing these other birds was awesome, and it was all part of a perfect and ridiculously circuitous plan. By going after other specialties and rare birds first, the Trogons would not be suspicious that we were coming for them. 

Loud and flashy, the Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher is a great decoy when one is going after a nemesis.

We ran into some other birders on the Kent Springs trail who were seeking the Scarlet Tanager (a rare bird for Arizona), and they informed us that they had heard some Trogons calling on the Madera Canyon Super Trail earlier that day. We made a mental note and then continued to search out this enigmatic Tanager. We eventually located the ruby-red bird and helped our earlier helpers to some great views as well, before heading over towards the Super Trail, an appropriately hyperbolic name for a nemesis showdown. 

Heading down Kent Springs and then further up the canyon was grueling. The heat was hot, as heat is known to be, and the humidity kept things humid, as humidity is wont to do. But no amount of adverse meteorology, not even meteors, could deter our meeting with the Trogons. Even when an adorable bricolage of bubbly birds--Bushtits and Bridled Titmouse and Bell's Vireos--came bumbling through, we stopped only for a minute. House Wrens and Canyon Wrens called to us as we hiked up the Super Trail wash, "Go back! It's too dangerous!" but soon they sat quietly on the sidelines, eager to see how it all would go down. 


The Wrens were not the only bystanders; other Madera residents, like this Yarrow's Spiny-tailed Lizard, peeked up to witness the reckoning. 


After hiking maybe a half-mile up the Super Trail, we began to hear the famous croaking calls of the Elegant Trogon. In fact, it seemed like there were two birds talking to each other. We scoured the trees for their bulky, long-tailed silhouettes. Beads of sweat began to form and run for the ground while the air held still, broken only occasionally by the koa koa koa that faintly echoed around us. After an eternal-seeming fifteen minutes, the calls came discernibly closer. I turned to face Pops and just as I did, a whooosing sound shot past my head. Reacting just on instinct and training, I tucked into a somersault, rolled forward in an action-hero kinda way (not really), and drew my Sony Sharpshooter. I looked up to see Pops' gaze transfixed ahead of me. There perched our elegant nemesis, resplendent and radiating with a show-stopping beauty nearly unparalleled in North America. Rather appropriately, the light was behind him, shining down in regal fashion.


The Elegant Trogon did not stay for very long, but even this brief sighting was enough to appease the aggravation of those fruitless years. The bird was incredible in the literal sense of the word; I couldn't believe I was looking at it then and there. The Trogon didn't exactly seem to fit in that sycamore and scrub-oak canyon. It didn't seem like his natural environment. Nonetheless, every year these tropical visitors bring the hard-earned reward of jaw-dropping beauty to the southeast Arizona birders, and this year we were finally among the lucky number.  


Seeing an Elegant Trogon was top priority this summer, and it came as one of our last sightings on the last real birding adventure of the summer. By golly, these birds know showmanship! And so, a tale of nemeses and hardship ends in happiness. So far, we've all lived happily ever after.


Posted by Laurence Butler
Clip Art courtesy of Maria Butler

23 comments:

  1. I LOVE this post Laurence, you had me on my toes, breathless! Huge congrats on finding, seeing and photographing this nemesis bird!

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    1. Thanks Mia. It was a defining moment, one that surely would have made or destroyed me as a future birder : )

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    1. Thanks Lillian, I appreciate you stopping by and commenting.

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  3. Super post and photos. So glad you got the bird, it's a beauty!

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  4. Hilarious and wonderful Laurence!!! Commenting from Maltnomah Falls, Oregon.

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    1. Thanks for vacating from you vacation to read Robert, hope you're seeing some cool birds there in cool Oregon

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    2. Congrats on getting your trogon! They are indeed elusive, and they taunt you! The one I got was posing exactly the same way, at exactly the same angle. :)

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    3. Hmmm...it was probably definitely the same bird Pat. Mystical creatures these Trogons...

      Thanks for commenting,
      Good birding!

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    4. Maltnomah Falls sounds delicious! I can't tell if it's a typo or a really awesome brewery I have yet to hear of!

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  5. Laurence, I am still laughing at that last picture. Seriously. Super awesome post, much congratulations and high fives. It gives hope to folks like me still hoping to face their nemesis someday (preferably with ninja gear on hand).

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    1. Thanks for all the high fives Jen. I know you know good bird art when you see it too, so I will take your compliment with much gravity and appreciation.

      Now I'm wondering though. Who's your nemesis?

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    2. For the last couple years I have had a most embarrassing nemesis... A bird just about everyone has seen a billion (yes, one billion) times... The Northern Shrike. I've seen plenty of Loggerheads despite them being the "rarer" variety here. White-tailed Kites are climbing the nemesis list as well, ready to take over if I ever find the shrike.

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    3. Those are pretty good (potential) Nemeses. At least, they're both predatory birds, which adds a cool angle of deadliness to the pursuit.

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  6. Congrats!! That is exciting. Your pictures are hilarious and yet....stunning:) The Trogon surely did pose for you:) It's one that I hear often but never see:) I'm figuring it will appear one of these days....and I think I may have a picture of them from two years ago. Two sitting on a branch on that trail. I was taking my brother and sister in law up the canyon and I thought, now what do we have there. But the pics are too dark to tell. I gotta really "SEE" them to make it count. I hope you both exchanged emails as they do go on a little vacation until next year when they start looking for a place to call home with their honey:) And I've heard that sometimes the females aren't always satisfied with their new home/nest. Several birders got a kick out of this and share their stories with us hopefuls:) Madera is great. I think I see something new there everytime I go....Blue Grosbeaks, Tanagers, Oreole Cookies, and oh those Turkeys are always fun to watch. Too much to see. Enjoy your Sunday! Good birding and as always your writing is great:) Chris

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    1. Thanks Chris. Like you say, I'm sure the Trogons will come out sooner or later, probably when you least expect it...

      Madera Canyon is such a superb location...I think I've logged more lifers there than anywhere else in Arizona, and perhaps North America. Not only does it draw in so many of those southeast AZ specialities, but it brings in a fair share of vagrants too. That Scarlet Tanager is still down there, and there've been Rose-breasted Grosbeaks and White-eyed Vireos there recently too.

      Hopefully next summer I'll get to see some more. The nemesis curse was broken, but one sighting is never enough : )

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  7. Laurence, what a hoot! You are quite the story teller! I don't believe my search went on as long as yours did but I miss the trogon several times before finally seeing it with a friend in Portal! Wonderful shots and a very fun read! Congrats on your sighting!

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  8. Thank you Kathie. Those Trogons are finicky birds at times but definitely one everybody should see at some point : )

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  9. What a story Laurence; the energy & intensity are palpable. Congrats on finding this amazing beauty! Love the photos, especially the last one!

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    1. Thank you Tammy. You're a trooper for making it all the way through this spluttering tale of drama and destiny : )

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  10. I was holding my breath..wait, wait.. then yes, happy ending! Delicious tale and what a gorgeous bird! Congrats, Laurence!

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  11. Super fantastic post, Laurence! Reading your narrative was like perusing a book I could not put down. I could not wait to learn the outcome of your search. Congratulations on spotting this especially gorgeous bird! I would love to see one of these beauties. Terrific photographs! Fun and fabulous post!

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