Friday, February 15, 2013

Wine and Whitewater: The Southeastern Draw

By now everyone's heard of the birding attraction in Southeast Arizona. Every little mountain range has its own specialities and rare species whether it's Mexican Chickadees and Hummingbirds or Spotted Owls and Montezuma Quail. Too often I launch into panegyrics on the region, and more than a few bird bloggers have filed for restraining orders against my continual ramblings about the place. But when I travelled down to the Sonoita area, on the southeastern foothills of the Santa Rita Mountains, it wasn't with the birds in mind (ok, they're always in mind), but for the wine. 
Yes indeedy, with their predominantly spanish varietals, the Arizona wine circuit is booming, and some outstanding, award-winning wines are being produced down at the Callahan, Doz Cabezas, Sand Reckoner, and Lightning Ridge wineries. The plan was to stay in the area at a friend's house for the weekend and soak in the scenery, along with gallons of adult grape juice, before heading over to the famous Whitewater Draw near Willcox to observe the massive flocks of noisy Sandhill Cranes and the marshy entourage that can be found nearby. 

Before we made it to the vineyards or the Whitewater Draw, we made a stop and explored the oldest standing Spanish mission in America, founded in 1691a.d. at Tumacacori. 

Set against the gloomy winter skies, the mission was positively lovely and emanating with that irreplaceable aura of historical worth. Nonetheless, after about ten or fifteen minutes of sight-seeing, I was drawn back outside by the sounds of Sparrows and their ilk.

Chipping and Lark Sparrows were all around the grounds, while Mockingbirds and Phainopeplas dotted the craggy tree tops. The occasional Brewer's and Vesper Sparrow was mixed in with the bunch, along with some other cruelly ambiguous birds like this first year Chipping Sparrow, which dared me to call him Clay-colored.

Driving through the Sonoita and Patagonia area, the fences were strewn with Lark Buntings and Red-tailed Hawks, while patient Harriers soared ever-present in the foreboding skies.

We had a marvelous time visiting the Callahan and Dos Cabezas tasting rooms, hob-knobbing with winos and growers and generally doing our best to make Bacchus proud. Forgive the grainer phone photos. Saturday was overcast and the day for the Grapes; Sunday was the day for Birds.

There's nothing like right out of the barrel

The unhappy weather had been brooding in Arizona all weekend, and we were regularly rained on. This made for an absolutely stunning drive out to the Whitewater Draw on Sunday morning as the thick clouds just started to break up and let in the light. The golden plains were so saturated with color and the sky seemed to hold every hue of blue and then purple as the sun finally had its way.

The Whitewater Draw, located about thirty minutes northeast of Bisbee in the southeast corner of the state, is one of the state's most famous birding sites as it pulls in thousands of wintering Sandhill Cranes every year. As we were approaching the preserve we saw hundreds of skeins spreading out over the farm fields in search of fresh grazing grounds. We arrived at the Draw a bit too later for the grand dawn take off, but there were still plenty of chatty birds still lingering in the shallow waters. From miles out the cacophony of honking Cranes echoed in our ears. The anxious, somewhat abrasive honk of the Crane is a very endearing sounds, one I regret not recording.

With the waters being pretty far removed from the pedestrian areas (that's half the appeal for the Cranes), the opportunities for up close viewing are pretty rare. Every once in a while though some Cranes would fly by close overhead, or off into a rainbow. There's got to be more than one pot of gold hidden out there.

While the Cranes are the main attraction, they're not the only birds on display. The tall marsh grass around the inundated lowlands is teeming with Sparrows, and smaller groups of Waterfowl also ply their trade in the shallows. Smaller birds like these Northern Pintails and Green-winged Teal cling to the underbellies of the Cranes and clean them of parasites. Scientists call it a symbiotic relationship. 

As one might guess, the Draw is also bubbling with raucous Marsh Wrens. These birds are often a torment for photography, but with so many around the odds are finally in the photographer's favor. The Whitewater Draw allows one distant looks at huge birds, and up close views of tiny birds. 

Meadowlarks and Thrashers inhabit the surrounding Grasslands, and with a little bit of luck one might hear the trill or catch a glimpse of a Grasshopper Sparrow. While pausing to scrape some mud (there's plenty of that too after some rain), I even noticed a delightful ruddy little rump slouching down from a  
scraggily bush. The black spots were promising too. We had gone to the Draw simply to see and hear the Crane spectacle, and we would also be heading back to Phoenix loaded up with wine (Callahan Tempranillo and Back Lot 10'...mmmmmm). Now there was a potential Lifer bird here to ice the cake.

Ice the cake it did! Ok, it didn't actually ice a cake, but I did see it poop. A pair of Ruddy Ground Doves, though not overly splendid or charming in their appearance and demeanor, were arguably the highlight, and an unexpected one at that, of an already amazing trip.

With all the birding, scenery, and now fantastic vineyards, there are too many reason to be in southeast AZ. Why anyone lives anywhere else (myself included) is beyond me. Birding is fun, and then there's birding with wine fun...


  1. Love it! Several years back I led one of the "Wings and Wine" field trips for the Birdy Verde festival, in which a morning of riparian birding is followed by some tasty "adult grape juice". I think this order was devised by the festival coordinators so that the trip leaders don't start misidentifying Bald Eagles as Crested Caracaras or such nonsense. (

    1. I guess that ordering makes sense. But like so many things that make perfect sense in this world, it may also be less fun. Wouldn't want any Bald Caracaras turning up though...

      Thanks for stopping by Lauren.

  2. Okay Laurence, you are dancing all around me and my favorite birding haunts, so when are you going to stop by and say HI! I see you found MY Mission! glad you got to see so many birds! Chris and I missed out on the ruddy Ground doves the day we were there together though he had seen them before. You will have to show me around wine country. I have not done that yet! Nice post and congrats on the lifer!

    1. We missed each other by just a week! I'm sure I can stop by and say hi soon, end of Febuary perhaps. I still need to get out into the San Rafael Grasslands and back to the Chiricahuas. NEED.

      I hear there are Ruddy Ground Doves reliably around the Patagonia entrance center these days...
      Good birding Kathie, see ya soon : )

  3. Congrats on the Ruddy!!! Wonderful find. I'm taking my Dad there this week. He's visiting from WI and I know he likes wine:) Secretly I'll bird:) I'm heading down to Patagonia to find the Rusty if the bird is still around next week. We shall see....commitments come first unfortunately. Great pics and post as always Laurence:)

    1. Yes for me the birds were...secondary...on this trip as well, but that whole corner of the state is bursting at the seems with them. It'll be a great week!

  4. Beautiful shots, Laurence, but the birds can wait - your post made me thirsty! Just some jug wine here though :-(